In 2001, Benoit Marion and Bernard Maillot opened two lines completely out of space on the Pic de l’aurore at Percé, Moby Dick and Double 7. Two paths that were formidable on both technical and mental levels ; A red friable limestone wall overflowing with pink ice cubes of varying shapes evoking the petals of a flower or the strange shapes of the creatures of the bottom of the seas. In 15 years, no repetition besides that by the opener himself (Ben) and Damien side who regrivered Moby Dick and tried another line between the two existing tracks, but in vain …. Damien always told me about the That it was scary, that nothing in all that he had seen (and he saw) looked like that. “The peak of horror is scary, it’s sick, there are ice cubes hanging everywhere and Ben dropped a big one like a bus …”
Last year, Carl Darveau and I went to try a climb of Moby Dick (M7 WI5 + 190 m). By climbing, the first length Carl quickly spotted the first Moby Dick bolts that we suspected of being rusted and disintegrated by saline spray. But to our surprise, the reddish exudate of the stone enamelled the platelets thus preserving them from any alteration due to the bad weather. Even this rust color gives a special charm to these common platelets. At the relays I started the second length and after 5 bolts, on a huge terrace nothing …. Béat I started a crossing of about twenty meters to get nowhere …… Rather than try Another try, we opted for Mr. Talisker at the Pit Caribou Pub. By comparing the pictures 2001 and 2015 we realized that a plate (or pan of wall for the most negative) of 50mX10mX2m it flew from a definite momentum to join the Atlantic abyss. Elementary my dear Watson, the line no longer exists for the mountaineer, she prefers to snuggle on the sea bed with sea urchins and starfish.Based on the idea of climbing this wall, we compulsively look to the multiple possible paths. With the optimism of the juvenile who hopes counted on his second appointment, but also with the apprehension of seeing himself once again undermined.
March 15, 4:30 pm, we are at the foot of the wall, camera in hand, nervous and giving high voices our interpretations on or it will pass tomorrow …… Check there, shit, wow, crack ….. Not on, the icicle is far …. Ouin, but there’s an inverted piolet ….. But the rock is rotten ….. OK we’ll sleep on it .. ..Camped at the inn At the corner of the Bench accompanied by the Nonagenarian Mrs. Lise, we look at the photos and the evidence is obvious to us, a line has formed in the last 2 months between doubles 7 and Moby Dick .. … Exactly where Ben and Damien had tried several years ago …… Given the death of my friend Ben last autumn and I wanted to pay him a tribute in my own way, ‘Appeared as a sign ….. Ben had sculpted this work of art, just for us and well in his way ……
Insomnia, March 16 8:30 am we are at work, in fact we are already working on equipping the line and judging the best route. Suddenly, the sound of shells whistling in the air, the temperature increased without our knowledge dislodging some of these Martian blocks threatening our beautiful helmets petzl well matching the colors of our coats. RETIREMENT ! In those days, it’s better to have tea with Madame Lise, it’s safer and after all, the heat of a fire and a good story of the times when the world still had time, that counts as well. Insomnia March 17 8:30 am we are at work, ice axes between the teeth, the guts that squeeze, the Valhalla why not.
Like a hypnotic trance, the way happens like a cloud, every movement is perfect, the temperature is perfect, the heart beats at the right rhythm, already the summit in a sea noise. Accolade, smile, we are more than a Team, we are brothers.
Thanks to Carl Darveau, my best.
To Dany Julien, for technical support and photos
Mrs. Lise and the Auberge du corner du Banc for comfort and warmth